by Jack
Kit upgrades:
#1: Goggle antennas
The Emax transporter goggles included in the kit are not a bad pair of goggles, but if there's one area that lets them down the most, it would have to be the included dipole antennas. From personal experience, I found mine to have shockingly poor video range, and I just assumed it had to be a problem with the drone. To my surprise, after upgrading both of the goggle antennas to the Menace RC Bandicoot antennas, I noticed a dramatic improvement in video range, and there was also significantly less static/ breakup. If you're looking for a bit more vtx range, I strongly suggest this upgrade.
-Note: to use it effectively with the Emax Transporter FPV goggles a 90 degrees SMA adapter will be necessary (but these are fairly inexpensive).
#2: Lipo charger
Although the kit includes a 1s lipo charger, it is fairly basic; meaning you'll soon be in need of an upgrade. I've tried a few couple of different chargers, and here are my recommendations:
TBS 1s charger v2:
Not recommended - I originally bought this little 1s charger in search of quicker lipo charge times and a more customisable charging experience - but I learnt my lesson: popular logo does not always mean high quality product. This charger takes over 2.5 hours to charge, even with a good power supply. It heats up extensively while charging and this can cause concern. The charge rate is non adjustable, so God knows what amps are being pumped into your batteries. One of the charging ports quickly FAILED on me! Stay away from this charger.
URUAV/ Eachine/ Happymodel 1s charger:
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - I picked this charger up for free off Facebook marketplace and I've had an overall very positive experience with it. It is simple and easy to use, the display is bright, charge rate and maximum voltage are customisable and - last but not least - it charges the batteries in much less than an hour. Although it is overall a great product, the maximum voltage reading is slightly inaccurate so it may at times charge your battery 0.05 volts too much or too little. If you are charging the stock Tinyhawk batteries, I recommend using the 0.6 amps option as this will charge the batteries in under an hour and since it's only about a 1.5C charge rate it isn't adding significant risk. Coming in a price of $14 USD, you can't really complain.
#3: Transmitter
The Emax e6 TX included in the bundle is fine and works alright with the Tinyhawk, but after a while you'll find yourself looking for an upgrade. It was actually my transmitter for about 6 months, as quality controllers were simply too expensive. This is where is BETAFPV Literadio 2 comes in - the ultra budget radio that has 90% of the features you'll need in a TX! It features quality hobby grade gimbals, both frsky d8 and the two d16 modes, inbuilt charging, great range and simulator support. The most impressive part about it; is its low price of $40 USD. I found that my flying greatly improved using the smooth, real gimbals compared to the toy grade ones found on the Emax e6. If you're not wanting crossfire capabilities, this radio really has it all.
#4 Record your flights
Once you become proficient in piloting your Tinyhawk, you'll probably find yourself wanting to record your flights, and the good news it that there are multiple cheap methods to do this.
1. Eachine ROTG02
Contrary to popular belief, goggles with dvr or an action camera are not the only ways to create DVRs of your flights! The Eachine ROTG02 is an easy way to capture in air footage. It is simply an OTG (on the go) receiver that plugs into your phone or tablet. To use it as a recording device, it works with multiple USB camera or phone FPV apps, and it displays a live feed to your screen allowing for capture. Another great use for it is to give spectators an FPV experience without having to lend them a spare set of goggles. One thing to note with the ROTG02 (at least the particular one that I received) is that the quality of video is not the best and it does pick up quite a bit of breakup and interference. However, others have had better luck with their OTG DVRs so I could have simply received a dud model.
2. Onboard DVR
I personally haven't tried this option, but others have had success mounting onboard DVRs like a Runcam mini DVR to a Tinyhawk Freestyle. This option will give 640x480 resolution and no breakup, however you'll have to find a way to mount it and it will add a 3.5 grams weight penalty.
3. External mini action cam
If you're wanting to effectively turn your Tinyhawk into a Cinewhoop, this option will probably be best for you. If you have the Tinyhawk II, you should be able to add something like an Insta360 GO camera or a Firefly micro cam and fly it on 2s, but you'll want to be light on the throttle or you could risk burning out an ESC (electronic speed controller). Another even more budget option is a mini action camera like a Quelima SQ12, but make sure you get the real version and not a clone. Another thing to note is that adding a mini action cam will also probably require some kind of 3d printed mount.
#4 Batteries
This one is fairly straight forward, but it's pretty much essential to buy extra batteries for your Tinyhawk. I recommend buying GNB 450mah 1s batteries for the best performance possible, but these ones are quite expensive for 1s batteries. They are pretty much exactly the same as the stock Tinyhawk 1s batteries, as they are HV (high volt), have an 80c/ 160c discharge rate and 450mah. If you are looking for greater flight times, GNB also sell some 520mah and 650mah 1s batteries however they will be slightly heavier. Stay away from their 550mah batteries though as they are much lower quality and will give worse performance and flight time.
Some other brands worth mentioning are URUAV and CNHL who offer similar 1s 450mah batteries specifically designed for Tinyhawks coming in at around half the price of the GNBs. If you do end up getting a standard voltage (4.2V maximum) battery, make sure that your charger supports this kind of lipo or else it could severely damage it.
#5 Soldering iron
Even though Tinyhawks are famous for their robustness/ durability, you are still bound to break something on them after time. When this happens, it is not always an easy fix, and adding a soldering iron to your kit is an excellent investment. For example, the Tinyhawk's antennas are very prone to snapping off, and as the drone doesn't use antenna connectors, you'll need to solder on a new one yourself.
Which soldering iron?
Really, you can use pretty much any soldering iron as they all work fairly similarly. I use quite a cheap one myself and it works but it does make doing some of the more precise work a bit more difficult. So if you want the easiest soldering experience and are prepared to spend a little bit more case, then the ts100 is a great option. For solder, you'll want to use leaded solder and lead free solder is very difficult to use. But when you're soldering, make sure to not breath in any of the solder smoke in as lead can cause dangerous long term effects.
Conclusion:
If you're looking for a better experience on a tight budget with a Tinyhawk RTF kit, these 5 upgrades are a great place to start, in chronological order. You will have a whole lot better time flying and repairing, and you'll also be more prepared to step up to a bigger quad in the future.
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